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Artvin
Koru Otel: If you’re heading for the Kafkasör Festival in late June, you may want to stay at this chalet-style hotel, pleasantly situated in the forest between Artvin and the festival ground. Comfortable en-suite rooms and delicious food; good, popular restaurant in and outside. Tel: (466) 212 6565. Booking essential.
Polis Oteli: surprisingly, the local police run a smart, modern hotel at the top of the town, SW from the Koru. En-suite rooms, open to all-comers, reasonable price, no breakfast (but plenty of patisseries in town) - don't be put off by the uniformed receptionist!
Yusufeli
Greenpeace Pension and camping: A newly improved restaurant, pension and campsite 700m N of the centre of Yusufeli, on the W bank of the river. 12 ensuite rooms plus 3 'tree houses', pleasant level camping, and an imdoor/outdoor restaurant next to the river. Owner Birol's son Oktay is Turkey's white water canoe champion, and they do one-day to 3-day rafting or canoe trips on the Çoruh and Barhal rivers. Tel: (466) 811 3620 or (544) 735 3610, www.birolrafting.com.
Otel Barcelona: A recently-built, large hotel with swimming pool and restaurant a km out of town, by the river. En-suite rooms are quite upmarket. Tel: (466) 811 3420; email: otelbarcelona@hotmail.com.
Tekkale
Cemil’s Pension: A few rooms around a small garden in the village centre, next to the bridge. Also a large dorm room suitable for groups or campers with own sleeping-bags. Tel: (466) 811 2908 or (536) 988 5029.
Selant Yaylası (see above): Cemil, with Luman from the village teashop, has also renovated some of the huts on Selant Yayla, on the route over the Güngörmez pass. The pass itself has been cleared and cairned and is easily passable. For use of the huts, which have mattresses and cooking facilities, or guided treks, call Cemil. Tel: (466) 811 2908 or (536) 988 5029.
Barhal
Karahan Pension: A kilometre out of the village, this basic but pleasant place offers rooms in a lovely wooden house and a dormitory/terrace. Owner Mehmet’s sons speaks some English and can do transfers from Erzurum or lifts up the road to Karagöl. Decent evening meals. Tel: (466) 826 2071; email:osmankarahan08@hotmail.com; www.karahanpension.com
Barhal Pension: 2, 3 and 4 bed rooms in a simple old house, and 6 new wooden bungalows, with more under construction, on the right as you enter the village. Also a delightful dining room, a sitting area (upstairs), internet and a garden. Evening meals or self-catering facilities. Young patron Mustafa speaks some English and can arrange mules or transfers to Karagöl/Amanesket. Tel: (466) 826 2031, (536) 264 6765, www.barhalpansiyon.com.
Marsis Hotel, en-suite rooms in a huge building at the entrance to the village. Evening meal optional, activities arranged. Tel: (466) 826 2002 www.marsisotel.com.
Yaylalar
Çamyuva Pension: A new wooden building with 15 en-suite rooms and 4 family chalets offer half-board accommodation. Hostel/dormitory accommodation in an older building above the shop/bakery; kitchen which guests can use. The owners, Ismail and Naim, run most things in the village and can arrange pick-ups from Erzurum and mule hire. Ismail is a font of knowledge about the Kaçkar - though his English is not great! Tel: (466) 832 2001; bookings through info@middleearthtravel.com.
Olgunlar
Deniz Golü Pension: Basic stone and wood-built pension with pleasant rooms, a balcony and a kitchen where you can cook your own food. Tel: (466) 832 2105.
Kaçkar Pension: More expensive, this wood-clad pension has large en-suite rooms, a self-catering kitchen and a pleasant sitting area outside. By the stream. Tel: (466) 832 2047; www.kackar.net
Sirakonaklar
The UNDP / DATUR project team have opened 7 village house pensions in this district of beautiful old houses set amongst walnut trees in a secluded valley part way between Yusufeli aand Ispir. The pensions are spread out along the valley, some distance apart and the altitude varies between about 1500 and 1800m. They are suitable for family holidays for countryside-lovers, or as a trekking base. They give excellent access to the Soganlı Valley, leading to the Hevek pass and Dilberdüzü, the base camp for climbing Kaçkar. They also are on the route up the Davali Valley to Davali Yaylası; from here you can cross the range via Kavron pass to Yukari Kavron, or via the Hodacur pass to Hacivanak and Elevit. The pensions have varying accommodation, and are listed below with a description and their phone numbers. For further information contact Egemen Çakır on 0532 606 4096. Most will undergo further improvements for 2009. They are listed in order of distance from the main road. See map for rough positions.
Esat’s pension One upstairs room with shower and six beds in an old stone building. 442-467 2062.
Imdat’s pension 200m walk from the road leads to an old stone building; it’s still being restored but next year will have 5 rooms. 442-467054
Muhammet’s Pension Currently 1 room in a new building; next year 5 rooms and a balcony are planned. 442 467 2039
Durmus’s pension A new building on a 3km side road; 3 rooms for 6-9 people but plans to expand to up to 12 people next year. 442-467 2127
Turan’s pension This poor family has 1 room with a shower, but close by is no 6, so they could be combined. 442-467 2029
Adem’s pension Like Turan’s pension, one room with shower. 442-467 2050
Telat’s pension 300 m from the road at the foot of the Davali Valley, this pension has 1-2 rooms with shower. 442 467 2065
Çamlihemsin
Otel Doğa: Nearly 5km out of town on the Şenyuva road, on the banks of the Fırtina river. Rambling and busy with groups on occasion, it has single, double, triple and family rooms – all ensuite. Very helpful and knowledgeable proprietors. Tel: (464) 651 7455.
Çat
Cancik: 6 waterless rooms with lumpy beds in a combination pension, restaurant and shop in the village centre. The restaurant is very variable. Tel: (464) 654 4120.
Toşi Pension: Newer of Çat’s 2 pensions, it’s on the river just outside the village. It’s sometimes in demand by tour groups – advance booking advised. Tel: (464) 654 4002.
Elevit
Kartal Pension: Rather gloomy old wooden house right by the tumbling river, the elderly owner is only just keeping it running. Basic waterless rooms, unreliable water despite the river – but the only place in town!
Başyayla/Kaleköy
Kale Pension: On the southeast side of the village in Demirelli Kesir district, this stone and breeze-block building is tricky to find (no sign!) but the female proprietor is very friendly and used to trekkers. Basic with 4 waterless rooms. Tel 0464/659 1110.
Ayder
İhlamur Altı Camping: Friendly Hemşinli owners offer camping on a green field above a ravine, at the top of end town near the Kardelen (see below) Tel: (537) 287 8878.
Kardelen Pension: Right at the top of the town, and it’s a long slog uphill from the bus stop, but worth the effort if you’re on a tight budget. Simple wood-built with place with 4 rooms upstairs, 10 beds in total, and basic showers. Owner Nadir is very friendly and, as a trekking guide, knows the Kaçkar well. Tel: (464) 657 2107; email: nadirdemirci@hotmail.com.
Nehirim Pension: Mid-range place right in the town centre. This well-run wood-built hotel, with terraces overlooking the town and mountains, gets lots of groups - so advance booking is essential. Tel: (464) 657 2040.
Istanbul Pension: An old building run by local women - small twin rooms, separate clean showers and good breakfasts - very central, but below the road and looking onto forest.
Bukla Oberj: Set above the main road in green pastures at the top of the village, this top of the range place caters largely to Turkey’s upper middle-classes, but is very trekker friendly (they have drying facilities for boots and clothes) and the food is superb – they even bake their own bread. Tel: (464) 657 2055; email:reservasyon@oberjbukla.com; www.oberjbukla.com
Natura Lodge: Under the management of Tamzara, a well-known Turkish tour company. 21 rooms, 2-3-or 4- bed timber-lined en-suite rooms. Evening meals, convenient position. Tel: (464) 657 20 35 www.naturaotel.com
Avusor
Ismail's pension. On the right side of the village as you approach from Ayder, this basic place has 4 waterless rooms.
Pokut
Demirci Pension: A few waterless rooms in an old wooden yayla building, with camping outside. Tel:0464/651 7495.
Amlakit
Ufuk Pension: Newish wood-built pension with large dining room. Accommodation in 3 chalets and a total of 24 beds, with views over the valley. Run by the friendly Kadir and his wife, it’s a nice place if a little over-priced. No phone.
Yukari Kavron
Sahin Pension: Rather scruffy and overpriced, it’s nonetheless the only place in the yayla. A row of wooden chalets each sleeping 2/3 people, en-suite with erratic hot water. Camping available. Phone not working at time of writing!
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